Tamagotchi v3 not working

[psi.r0ckin]

Hi everyone, I wish somebody could help me with this issue that is worrying me a lot.
My tamagotchi v3 does not work, I’ve bought new batteries and tried to turn it on but it always does the same thing: turn on, work okay for a few seconds and then the pixels go crazy, glitch and the screen turns off and won’t turn on again unless I reset, and if I do that, the same thing will happen again.
Last time I played with my v3 was on Christmas. I got the Pix by then so I turned the v3 off and took out the batteries so I could focus on the new one. I keep my tamagotchis in tupperware with silica bags so there’s no chance of humidity getting into them. The batteries were nowhere near the device.
I bought this tamagotchi second hand on eBay on April last year, it worked perfectly until now, I have no idea what could happen or how I could fix it, if someone could help and give me directions it’d be very very appreciated.
I’ve also tried to ROM test it as I read online, but the same thing happens, even when in the rom screen, the screen goes off and the tamagotchi goes blank.
I have never debugged it or done anything out of the norm to it, just played as it was intended to be played.
Hope this is enough information, I include pictures just in case they could help out.
Note: I do own the back part of the tamagotchi, I just took it out so I could film the video easier, but even if I put it on, it won’t work.

This is the front part of the tamagotchi.

This is the back part of the tamagotchi.


This is where I keep it, it is about 8 centimeters long and 6 centimeters tall.



This is a video of the issue.
View attachment IMG_5311.mov

 

[HairyMilkshakes]

Check battery level. Otherwise it's a dead capacitor. Replace it with a new one or a tantalum capacitor. If you're in the USA you can source them from Amazon in bulk or if you want a high quality one then you can get them from a reputable company like Mouser.

Here's another example:

 

[psi.r0ckin]

Check battery level. Otherwise it's a dead capacitor. Replace it with a new one or a tantalum capacitor. If you're in the USA you can source them from Amazon in bulk or if you want a high quality one then you can get them from a reputable company like Mouser.

Here's another example:

I see. Thank you so much for the help! I’ll see if I can find one that fits the device. You’re a life saver, thank you!

 

[HairyMilkshakes]

I see. Thank you so much for the help! I’ll see if I can find one that fits the device. You’re a life saver, thank you!

Just make sure the old capacitor hasn't started leaking yet and damaged the main board. Sometimes that happens and it leads to some bad stuff. Bandai is known for using low quality capacitors on these things so it's still a good idea to swap them out ASAP.

The capacitor you are looking for to replace the ones in an old school Tama should be around the same specs as this (10v, 4.7uF):



But item spec should be written directly on the capacitor inside the Tama once you open it up.

 

[psi.r0ckin]

Just make sure the old capacitor hasn't started leaking yet and damaged the main board. Sometimes that happens and it leads to some bad stuff. Bandai is known for using low quality capacitors on these things so it's still a good idea to swap them out ASAP.

The capacitor you are looking for to replace the ones in an old school Tama should be around the same specs as this (10v, 4.7uF):

View attachment 9757

But item spec should be written directly on the capacitor inside the Tama once you open it up.

I see. I’ll try to search for one as soon as possible. I’ve just opened it up and it looks like this:

Not sure if it can be seen properly in the picture but this is how it looks, so it must definitely be the issue you’ve written to me. I’ll search for a replacement as soon as possible, thank you so much.

 

[HairyMilkshakes]

I see. I’ll try to search for one as soon as possible. I’ve just opened it up and it looks like this:
View attachment 9759
Not sure if it can be seen properly in the picture but this is how it looks, so it must definitely be the issue you’ve written to me. I’ll search for a replacement as soon as possible, thank you so much.

I recommend tantalum capacitors because they don't have leaking issues at all. It may be worth it for you to pay a few extra bucks for a high quality one. If you are disassembling it then might as well as replace it with a high quality component so you never have to open it again.

By the way top left is the time keeper. That looks normal so make sure you only work with the black capacitor at the bottom and also pay attention to the +/- terminal marking. You can short the board if you install the capacitor wrong.

Double posting - it's also possible the crystal resonator needs to be replaced. Over time those can degrade as well. I recently had a similar issue to yours and fixed it by replacing mine. https://www.amazon.com/Comimark-30Pcs-32-768-32768HZ-Crystal-Oscillator/dp/B0855HBCFX

Or look for this product: crystal oscillator, 2x6, 32.768KHZ.

 

[psi.r0ckin]

I recommend tantalum capacitors because they don't have leaking issues at all. It may be worth it for you to pay a few extra bucks for a high quality one. If you are disassembling it then might as well as replace it with a high quality component so you never have to open it again.

By the way top left is the time keeper. That looks normal so make sure you only work with the black capacitor at the bottom and also pay attention to the +/- terminal marking. You can short the board if you install the capacitor wrong.

Thank you so much for all the help it really means a lot. Thank you!!!!!!

 

[HairyMilkshakes]

Thank you so much for all the help it really means a lot. Thank you!!!!!!

I am waiting for mods to approve my previous post but also consider replacing the crystal oscillator now I've taken a closer look at your Tama's internal pic. Over time those can degrade and interfere with time setting and cause the units to reset. They are readily available online in bulk for very cheap. Look for "crystal oscillator, 2x6 32.768KHZ"